Embroidery of Souvenir Jacket

Embroidery is one of the big points of Sukajan.
It is no exaggeration to say that the completeness of this embroidery affects the quality of Sukajan.
Here, we will focus on embroidery techniques considered to be such an important part! What kind of technique is used for embroidery in Sukajan?

Hand embroidery

Hand embroidery refers to embroidery techniques applied one by one by craftsmen. Although sewing machines are used, hand embroidery is very time-consuming and labor-intensive.

In the case of hand embroidery, the same embroidery doesn’t exist.
So every single embroidery has various facial expressions, real movement is born in the picture!
There are several techniques such as hand stitching and hand smocking in this hand embroidery.

Among them, free hand embroidery is often used for embroidery in japanese souvenir jacket.
It is said also as weave embroidery.

It is a Japanese original technique mainly used for kimono, using a horizontal swinging sewing machine in which the needle moves to the right and left, raising the pattern directly on the fabric with the hands of craftsmen while watching the design.

Production process of free embroidery

How do sewing embroidery on souvenir jacket?
I would like to introduce the work process of free embroidery.
The quality of embroidery depends on the artisan’s arms!

1. Draw a sketch on a dedicated plastic plate.
2. Along the drawn sketch, use a kind of soldering iron to carve the mold.
3. Sprinkle the powder on the finished mold and press lightly from above.
4. From the back and face sides of the Sukajan fabric, apply a loop for embroidery.
5. It is finally sewing machine. Balance the position to embroider.
6. When finished embroidering, it is done by cutting off the back thread.

Jacquard embroidery

It refers to the technique of moving a sewing machine with a computer program.
In the embroidery industry, that automatic sewing machine is called “jacquard embroidery machine”.

“Jacquard embroidery” weave the pattern with warp and woof.
It can be said that it is a technique suitable for complicated patterns.
It becomes a solid finish as a whole, and various variations in the weave organization are characteristic.

Until now, most of Sukajan was made by free embroidery, but recently it is made by “Jacquard embroidery”.
If use “jacquard embroidery”, it is possible to mass-produce.
There are various kinds of this technique.

Stitch embroidery

It is a method that makes the beauty of stitch characteristic.
Various expressions are shown by changing the way of stitching, such as the type of yarn and straight lines and curves.

Scalloped embroidery(scalar embroidery)

It is one which made the edge of the fabric semicircular and stopped embroidery.
Many are applied to the hem of the skirt, etc. It is not used for Sukajan.

Drawn embroidery

Embroidery that makes patterns and logos with holes and embroidery threads by using a special needle.

What is Jacquard?

I explained the “jacquard embroidery” in the above, but what is “jacquard” in the first place?
Jacquard is a type of opening device used for weaving machines.
It is derived from the name of French weaver craftsman Joseph Jacquard.
Generally it is said to be Jacquard machine, because it uses Jacquard card.

What is Jacquard card …?

It is also called “cut paper” or “punch card”.
A lot of holes are opened in a rectangular cardboard, and the hole becomes the data for weaving pattern.
It is linked with the Jacquard part, and control the weaving machine.
Recently, computer is used instead of Jacquard card.

  • Apr 13, 2016
  • Category: Article
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